Glasgow, Scottland

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Given the contrasting reputations of Edinburgh and Glasgow, any traveler who hasn't examined a map of Scotland might be forgiven for thinking that they are separated by hundreds of miles. In fact, Scotland's two primary cities are only about 72km (45 miles) apart, but almost everyone who visits them will be struck by their differences.
And although there is a good deal of competition (and some envy, too) between the two cities -- like The Beatles' Lennon and McCartney -- they are strongest as a pair, each bringing value to the partnership.
Both cities contribute mightily -- and equally -- to the cultural vibrancy of the nation. With this in mind, the country would do well to improve the public transportation links between the two cities, especially in the wee small hours.
To the east, the capital, Edinburgh, has an almost fairy-tale setting, with its imposing castle high on one hill. Built on ancient volcanoes and first established because of its secure and defensible position, it has become a crossroads. Practically everyone who comes to Scotland today spends some time in Edinburgh. And its midsummer international Festival is one of the biggest in the world. Edinburgh is the second most popular tourist destination in Great Britain following London, and it's not hard to see why. Compact and tidy, it is more of a big town than a small city.
In the west, Glasgow, on the other hand, is not a place that anyone might call precious. In comparison to Edinburgh, Glasgow was settled much earlier because it was an ideal place to ford the River Clyde, which later gained a reputation for shipbuilding and industry. Today Glasgow resembles nothing but a modern city. It has overcome its 20th-century associations with grime, grit, and gangsters -- and now it is arguably more vibrant than Edinburgh, with a vigorous indigenous music and art scene. Without a picturesque castle or twee palace, it exemplifies urban Scotland: historic, dynamic, increasingly cosmopolitan, and attuned to the world. In 1990, it was named European Culture Capital and in 1999, U.K. City of Architecture and Design.
Edinburgh and Glasgow have a lot to offer individually, and taken as a duo, they are more impressive still. Both cities are among Europe's most dynamic centers. Edinburgh is the seat of Scottish royalty and government, and urban Glasgow boasts lively culture and Victorian splendor.

 
Glasgow Restaurants

Like Edinburgh, the dining scene in Glasgow has improved considerably since the days when many local residents thought spaghetti Bolognese was exotic. There has been tremendous growth in the number of restaurants since the mid-1990s, and the choice is excellent. Although the city may not be able to boast about the Michelin stars that a couple of Edinburgh restaurants have earned, Glasgow has some seriously stylish dining rooms, budget-minded bistros, and a mix of ethnic eateries.
Today some of the best fresh Scottish produce is served up here, whether it is shellfish and seafood from the nearby West Coast sea lochs, Ayrshire meat such as pork and lamb, or Aberdeen Angus steaks. There are an ever-increasing number of ethnic restaurants. The immigrant groups who have most influenced cuisine in the city are Italians and families from the Asian subcontinent, mainly the Punjab region. There is a surfeit of Italian and Indian restaurants, as well as a good choice of Chinese and Greek restaurants, too.
A lot of restaurants close on Sunday or on Monday (sometimes both), and many lock up after lunch, reopening again for dinner at around 6pm. The hours listed here are when food is served. Bars on the premises may stay open longer.
For more ideas on dining options, buy The List magazine's annual Eating & Drinking Guide, a comprehensive review of hundreds of eateries in Glasgow (and Edinburgh).
Prices -- Especially given the strength of the currency in the U.K. since 2002, prices will seem high. Still, there is a range of choices for most budgets. The prices include the 17.5% VAT, so there are no hidden surprises when the bill comes. If you're looking for bargains, inquire about pretheater special menus, which can be half the cost of the regular dinner menu.
Tipping -- A gratuity of 10% is the rule, although diners can leave nothing if badly treated. On the other hand, if you were truly impressed, a 15% or 20% tip should be considered. In a few restaurants, service is included in the bill automatically. This can be, however, amended or deleted, if service was dreadful.
Smoking -- Following a pattern set by nearby Ireland, as well as California and New York City, smoking is prohibited by law from all enclosed public spaces in Scotland, which includes restaurants and bars. Some, however, may provide outdoor seating where smoking is allowed.

Glasgow Walking Tours

Glasgow is set on fairly gentle hills rising up from the basin created by the River Clyde, so the city is amenable to walking. Most "perambulations" don't involve the scaling of many steep streets -- although in order to obtain good vistas, a climb is sometimes obligatory. Like in any bustling metropolis now rather overly dependent on the use of automobiles, pedestrians should always exercise caution at intersections and other crossing points. Remember, look both ways. Glasgow drivers (including those behind the wheels of city buses) can be a tad aggressive at times. Still, some streets have been made into pedestrian malls. Most of the city's buildings in the central districts are neither especially tall nor exceptionally imposing. It is quite easy to get off the beaten track and away from crowds, should that be your desire. Plus, the "dear green place" has plenty of parks and open spaces. And given the multitude of bus routes, the circular subway, and various suburban trains, getting back to where you began is typically easy, even if your route is not a convenient loop. If you have all day to spare, walks 1 to 3 listed below can be combined to create one pleasant stroll right across Glasgow from the Merchant City to the West End.